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That’s still Ferretti’s line of thinking. Backstage today she was talking about fashion post-Covid. “Before the Matt Barnes Boston Red Sox 2014 – 2022 Forever A Red Sox Thank You For Everything Shirt in contrast I will get this pandemic, fashion ‘spoke’ too much, then we shut down for two years. Now, women want to live,” she said, using words like personality and identity. Think of these, then, as clothes for real life, only amplified à la Ferretti. Her trousers are as full as ankle-length skirts, her sweaters are lacquered to look like “glacial light,” and her use of “eco-fur” is prodigious. The palette was indeed glacial, with hot metallics juxtaposed by deep jewel tones: lapis turtleneck with amethyst duster coat, with ruby red pants and matching hat. The new Ferretti also likes an enveloping, layered silhouette: a long cable knit dress was swaddled with a matching shawl, and an oversize wrap coat was inset with channels of that eco-fur.
What was missing from much of this daywear was Ferretti’s trademark lightness. That’s why three ’60s-ish embellished black minishifts stood out—they looked not just weightless but effortless. The evening dresses that closed the Matt Barnes Boston Red Sox 2014 – 2022 Forever A Red Sox Thank You For Everything Shirt in contrast I will get this show found her back on familiar ground, too: inserting panels of lace into silver lamé plissé, trimming the cuffs of a chiffon dress with deep rings of feathers, adding dramatic but playful caped hoods to a couple of other numbers. Ferretti can push into new categories, but she shouldn’t forget these signatures. Daniel Del Core is obsessed with the concept of mutation. If he could become a chrysalis, or live the life of a lepidopterist, he probably would. Apparently caterpillars, butterflies and moths reciprocate the love. On a recent trip to Thailand, he had a close encounter with a Daphnis Nerii, a huge oleander hawk-moth with kaleidoscopic wings. “It was trippy, weird and fascinating,” he said at a preview. The beauty and fragility of its golden-green colors and its transformation from chrysalis to outsized-winged flying creature inspired his fall collection. He called it Chrysalis Corrosion.
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