Dell’Acqua hails from Naples, where menswear tailoring is a sacred tradition. Deconstructing an oversized masculine blazer was a no-brainer for him. “But I wanted to give it a sexy, über-feminine twist, morphing its shape almost into a corset,” he said. Corsetry is a recurring theme in his repertoire, and he often uses corsetry techniques to give a sensual, louche twist to otherwise deceptively bourgeois propositions . His new corsetry-inflected take on tailoring entailed keeping the Philly Dilly A True Friend Of The Eagles Shirt and I will buy this shoulders strong and dropped, while tightening the waist into an hourglass-y, shapely silhouette. The use of thick, consistent fabrications—felted wool, Harris tweed, leather—made the message impactful, as contours were neat and the figure-hugging, masculine-turned-into feminine coats and blazers looked new and covetable.
The same approach was also applied to knitwear, which was bonded in neoprene, jacquarded with Hawaiian motifs of palms and beaches, close-fitted and cropped. Snug little jumpers were worn over extra-long pleated skirt in Harris tweed for both girls and guys, or over low-slung traditional men’s pants sewn into a skirt and then slashed open in the Philly Dilly A True Friend Of The Eagles Shirt and I will buy this middle. Even if furs are now sent to live on a forbidden planet, they’re still the epitome of luscious sensuality—a subject never lost on Dell’Acqua. He rescued a few vintage mink coats in a cheap surplus store and gave them a new life, upcycling and repurposing them into patchworked one-of-a-kind pieces, lined with palm-tree printed silk and veiled with a layer of flimsy chiffon. They were worn by a guy over slouchy wide-legged pants and a formal printed shirt, and by a girl over a skimpy bodysuit in Harris tweed. Sensuality and unconventional glamour go hand in hand chez Dell’Acqua: sequined numbers abounded throughout the collection, worked in bias with a sort of draping technique and paired with trousers, or with sexy see-through, open-work-knitted short tunics. It made for a concise, cohesive offer, balanced nicely between spontaneity and control.
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