First the Tampa Bay Lightning Bleeding Blue shirt also I will do this less obvious stuff. This is the most surprising aspect of Puglisi’s Cavalli remodel: Never before has this label called upon the tartan maker to Queen Elizabeth II for its plaids. Whether a plaid has indeed ever appeared on a Roberto Cavalli runway is up for debate; but either way, Puglisi brought his minimalist’s eye for sharp cuts—yes, I said minimalist—to tailored pieces. As for how he’s getting sexy right, much of it comes down to the collection’s fetish aspect. His Cavalli women looked comfortably in control in his cage dresses. Lingerie dressing quickly emerged as a key theme on day one of Milan Fashion Week. All credit to Puglisi, it won’t be long before another young star makes a red carpet hit out of his update to the Zendaya dress, which transfers the game of conceal/reveal to the front of the torso.
Feng Chen Wang is having a moment. Earlier this month, she debuted her designs for the Tampa Bay Lightning Bleeding Blue shirt also I will do this Chinese Olympic flag bearers at this year’s opening ceremony in Beijing, lending her offbeat eye to a series of puffer jackets decorated with inky blue line drawings of frosty mountainous landscapes, alongside slick white jackets and trousers inspired by traditional Chinese tailoring. And yesterday she debuted her latest collection in London while working with her team remotely from Shanghai, where she’s been stuck for the duration of the pandemic. “I’m really excited, but it’s been challenging,” said Wang. “It’s a new way of working.” Things may be going swimmingly for Wang right now, but this season she was drawn to notions of imperfection. Her signature chopped-and-screwed shapes—this time arriving in the form of hybridized trench coats with puffer details, asymmetric denim jackets spliced with golden padded sleeves, and some intriguing shirting featuring layers of contrasting blue and white panels—dovetailed nicely with this search for the beauty found in flaws. But for Wang, it ran a little deeper, too. She noted that when we can accept the imperfections of what we own, those things hold greater longevity. Wang showed the clothes in a gallery space she curated remotely—featuring an array of paintings and textile pieces of contrasting textures—that was carefully set up to highlight the seasonlessness of her clothes. “Do we need everything new every season, and to then throw it away after six months and buy something new?” Wang said.